What a difference a single river crossing makes. If you ever wonder why every country, no matter how small or unknown is worth a visit, then the stark contrast between the two tiny young nations of Guyana and Suriname would be an exemplary answer.
The view from my mini-bus window on part II of the Georgetown, Guyana to Paramaribo, Suriname trip has changed dramatically. The first real hint occured when I was actually able to look out the window without fear that my face would go through the glass on the next major pot hole we hit or yet another major near-miss traffic situation. Looking through the front windshield I saw a paved road with actual signs and even paint demarkating the lanes! The country suddenly feels tropical but with a definite sense of purpose. All the land is being utilized for cultivation or has actual pens for the animals they rear. The donkeys are being cared for, not tied to the side of the road creating hazards. Bananas and coconut bloom from the palms beckoning you to be refreshed. The homes are all in more than livable condition. The style of the older colonial homes is not as elegant and elaborate as in Georgetown but they are cared for here. Fresh paint, no rotted wood or plastic covering to holes. There are gardens.
Suriname is younger than Guyana earning its emancipation from the Netherlands in 1975. The language is still Dutch and the European influence is very strong here. Politically, this country of 500,000 people has more connection to Caribbean and Europe than to its neighbours directly South - it is not even possible to cross into Brazil from Suriname despite their shared border! It's interesting to note that in addition to the Dutch being the last nation to abolish slavery in 1863, they also have a reputation for being the roughest and toughest master. Here in Suriname, all emancipated slaved were still forced to labour for 10 more years - for free - following their liberation. Seems the only real difference that followed 1863 is that the African people were actually recognized as human beings, not just property. Of course the Dutch, like the British in Guyana, also brought indentured workers from around the world - mainly other Dutch colonies like Indonesia.
*It's cheaper for locals to fly from Paramaribo all the way to Amsterdam, Holland and then back to South America than to try flying directly to another country within the continent (outside of neighbours - British and French Guyanas). WOW!
*Check out my story on the Maroon people of Santigron @ http://thirteensquared13.blogspot.com/2013/08/santigron-maroon-villages-of-suriname.html Maroons are the direct descendants of escaped slaves.
My time here in Paramaribo is coincidentally punctuated by Carifest XI. It is supposed to be the Caribbean's biggest cultural event bringing together arts and crafts, music, performances, culinary and writer word arts. It is the first time it is held in 5 years despite its biennial schedule and while its opening ceremonies may have been a political success on TV, locals and tourists alike, who traveled here for the festival were left feeling angry and unimportant. The entire bleachers filling Independence Square were composed of delegate representatives from every nation involved in the festival who were given special invitations. The problem is that the people responsible seem to have neglected to inform the people who traveled from near and far that they would be locked out behind massive barriers without a chance of experiencing or watching anything. After the show ended we took to the street once more hoping to revel in festival atmosphere but the crowds of well dressed, calm and proper youth of every background seemed to just disperse into the night. I would call it an interesting phenomenon, but that only seems to be the norm. The festival will continue for 10 days - sorry to say I won't be here to tell you all about it as my journey continues East into French Guiana, the only piece of European Union land in South America.
For an easy evening trip in Paramaribo, try a dolphin tour. Boats take you out on the river in search of these beautiful pink bellied dolphins unique to the Amazon areas. They like attention so make some noise and they could put on a show for you with aerials and acrobatics. Other activities to do in Suriname are similar to those of Guyana, specifically involving going into the interior to do trekking, wildlife or waterfall viewing. My personal opinion is that the Guyana jungle is more of a virgin forest so densely packed with wildlife, for now. As international companies make their way into the Amazon of Guyana to mine for gold and export their ancient lumber the situation will undoubtedly change.
*Dolphins tour are offered by Waterproof Paramaribo for 27 Euros.
Pros: Excellent service by our guide Anna and delicious traditional snacks served during a short village visit up river. A beautiful sunset on the water doesn't hurt either.
Cons: You have make your own way to the docks. Taxi costs 20 Suriname Dollars each way. (That's about $7US at current exchange.)
Waterproof Tours Suriname www.waterproofsuriname.com
info@waterproofsuriname.com
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